Category: Gardening

When choosing which types of edibles to grow, we like to let our tastebuds do the talking—er, choosing. Not only do we plant our tried and true favorites, we also like to test out new varieties (not necessarily new to market, but new to us). You’d be surprised by the subtle flavor differences among different cherry tomatoes, for example.

We also fancy ourselves to be quite creative with our harvests in the kitchen. We pick to preserve, sauté, grill, slice, steam, stuff, mash, and barbecue. We’ve teamed up with the Home Grown Seed Collection by P. Allen Smith to show you a few fun gourmet veggies to grow. We’ve also gathered some suggestions to help you figure out what to do with them come harvest time. Don’t let any of your precious crops to go to waste!

Here are 6 gourmet veggie picks to add to your garden

Sauté it: Aspabroc F1 Baby Broccoli ‘Broccolini’
Aspabroc is a true gourmet vegetable that thrives in the spring and fall garden. This is the original Broccolini, a cross between broccoli and gai lan (aka Chinese broccoli) and is grown for its long-stemmed, broccoli-like flower buds. It’s pretty easy to grow, doesn’t mind a bit of cool weather, and doesn’t take up a lot of space in the garden. To encourage a long harvest of those yummy side-shoots, harvest the centre stalk just as it begins to mature. Then, apply a dose of liquid organic fertilizer to push the plant into high production.

Cooking with Broccolini: You can eat both the ends and the tender stalks that resemble asparagus (hence the name aspabroc!). It is delicious sautéed with a bit of olive oil, and salt and pepper—add some crushed garlic for even more of a kick. Many recipes will tell you to give it a dunk in boiling water for a couple of minutes, followed immediately by a cold rinse before tossing it in the frying pan. Serve it as a side dish, create a bed of Broccolini and add a scoop of quinoa salad on top, or drape it over a burger as a fancy topping.

Stuff it: ‘Right on Red’ (Hybrid) pepper
These peppers also go by the delicious moniker “Hungarian cheese pepper.” And everything tastes better with cheese. It looks a little different than your standard red or green pepper—it’s more squat than long and elegant. However that makes it perfect for stuffing. Seeds should be started indoors (10 to 12 weeks before the last frost), and the plants love the heat. Plants will grow to be 18 to 24 inches with lots of early-to-mature fruits that hang like tree ornaments, and can be placed in the garden or in containers.

Cooking with ‘Right on Red’ peppers: The walls of this pepper are thick and there is space to add your favorite toppings—cooked quinoa with chickpeas, parsley, and feta, or ground beef, rice, and cheddar cheese topped with your favorite salsa. With a paring knife, trim around and remove the stem area. Scoop out the membrane and seeds. Brush the bottoms with olive oil and grill them for a few minutes on the barbecue, remove to add the filling, and then grill for a couple more minutes. For a cold option, where you don’t cook the pepper at all, simply fill the hollowed out pepper with a tuna salad or other yummy filling. You could also use these peppers as colorful serving bowls for fresh summer dips!

Purée it: ‘Little Dipper’ (Hybrid) butternut squash
While this variety of butternut squash does not produce behemoths—it produces fruit that weighs about two pounds each—the vines are vigorous and harvests are prolific. ‘Little Dipper’ seeds can be planted directly in the garden once all threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Plants prefer a well-draining soil. Enrich the area with compost before planting five to six seeds per hill.

When I was working on my book, Grow Curious, I decided that I would include a pressed leaf or flower from my garden in random copies of the book. If you bought a print copy, please turn to page to see if you got one.

I’ve pressed many leaves and flowers through my years as a gardener, but pressing in high volume encouraged me — or rather, gave me an excuse — to experiment more than I had before with pressing all sorts of plants and plant parts. I’ve kept it up since and am growing a collection to keep so that eventually I can make an herbarium [a collection of preserved plant material that catalogues the flora of an area] of this garden and my time here.

I’ve found that while a proper flower press is helpful for travel, a really big book works just as well for most plants and is my preferred press to use. It’s faster because you can just tuck leaves in as you, rather than unscrewing each bolt and replacing. I have a specific book that I use most. It’s an over-sized cookbook with thick paper that I didn’t particularly like and meant to purge until I realized it would make a great plant press! I’ve also used an old phonebook, but they’re hard to come by these days!

White bleeding heart flowers ( Dicentra spectabilis ). These are special to me since my friend Sakura gave this plant to me many years ago as a seedling just days before we lost her in a car accident.

I place a few pieces of paper around leaves to absorb the moisture that is expressed through the drying process and prevent sticking. Plain copy paper is fine for most leaves, but a an absorbent paper such as newsprint (cheap) or blotting paper (more expensive) can be used when there is more moisture inside the leaves. In the case of thicker leaves (or flowers), I don’t press too hard to begin with, gradually adding more weight on top in the form of several big books stacked one at a time. Too much weight all at once can smash the liquid out and make the plant parts permenantly stick to the paper.

I have had some success with this slow method when pressing thicker flowers like tulips or daffodils, but overall a press is preferable since it is easier to distribute the weight/pressure equally.  small presses similar to this one, but have had plans in my head for about to make a larger one. I may just eventually give in and buy something like this. I think straps are better than corner bolts at a larger size because of the distribution of weight/pressure. Corner bolts means there’s no weight pressing in the middle, which can be an issue with thicker plant materials. I don’t have a microwave and have never used a microwave press so I can’t speak to their efficacy.

Other Tips:

• Collect plant materials on dry days after the morning dew has evaporated.
• Books work best for most leaves and thinner flowers such as pansies, aquilegia, and bleeding hearts that aren’t too squishy.
• “Drier” leaves from plants such as Japanese maple, gingko, or sage are much easier to press than the thicker, wetter leaves of tropical houseplants.
• Do a bunch of plants at once if you can. It’s better to do a bunch and then leave them be. When I do a new batch, I usually start again with another book or press and wait for the first batch to dry before removing them and reusing the book.
• I do reuse the blotting paper many times over; even regular copy paper can usually take many uses.
• I store my pressed materials in a flat file drawer unit with sheets of paper between them to make removal easy since they are so delicate. See pic above
• I bought herbarium strips for mounting from this etsy seller.

Lawns are everywhere. Some are highly tended; others, not so much. My own lawn is a mixed planting of three types of turf grass (Kentucky blue, fescue, and perennial rye grass), clover, violets, ground ivy, and various other “weeds”, which is exactly how I like it (and so do the resident honey bees and bumble bees!). Regardless of how perfectionistics you are about your lawn, at one point or another, you’ll find yourself needing to plant grass seed. Whether it’s to fill in a bare spot left behind by Fido or a wayward snowplow, or to install a brand-new lawn after a construction project, learning how to plant grass seed is a necessity for most homeowners. This article offers a simple guide to success, no matter the reason for your reseeding efforts.

Start with the best type of grass for your climate

As a professional horticulturist and a former landscaper, I’ve seeded dozens of brand-new lawns over the years, and I’ve over-seeded bare spots in hundreds more. No matter how large or how small your job is, success always starts with selecting the best grass seed for your region. Different grass species thrive in different climates. There are cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses. The label of the package will tell you which grass varieties are included. It will also tell you whether or not there is a starter fertilizer included. Do not choose a blend that includes weed control products. They could harm young seedlings.

Which grass seed is best for your yard also depends on the amount of sunlight it receives. I suggest contacting a local garden center or feed store and speaking with them about the best options for your region. There are also some useful online maps with all the information you’ll need to choose the appropriate grass species for your growing conditions if you live in the US.

Some brands of grass seed come blended with a “filler” product intended to help you distribute the seed evenly and to act as a protective covering. I personally avoid these products because they are more costly than purchasing a bag of high-quality plain seed and they don’t cover as large of an area.

Preparing the ground for planting

After selecting and purchasing the seed, it’s time to prepare the soil for the planting process. This is a very important step in knowing how to plant grass seed successfully. The tender roots of young grass plants will not grow well in compacted soils so it’s essential that this step be done properly. Here are instructions for prepping the ground to overseed bare spots in an established lawn and instructions on how to prepare for planting grass seed in a large bare area.

Preparation for seeding a bare spot in the lawn: Begin by using a cultivator to remove the dead grass. If it’s a small spot, use a hand cultivator. If it’s a larger spot, use a diamond hoe or warren hoe. Then, dig up the area down to a depth of two or three inches with a shovel or trowel. Loosen the soil and break up any clumps.

Preparation for planting grass seed in a large bare area: If you want to know how to plant grass seed in larger areas successfully, begin by loosening the top three to five inches of soil. Use a rototiller for the job if it’s a very large lawn area. Use a shovel or hoe if it’s an area that’s just a few square feet.

Whether the area is small or large, after loosening the soil, it’s time to rake it smooth. Use a bow rake or a seeding rake to further break up any soil clods and rake the soil out into fine particles and a smooth finish. Use the tines of the rake to smash any large clumps of dirt if necessary.

The final step of site preparation for planting grass seed is to water the area well. Putting seed down on damp soil encourages speedy germination and provides immediate moisture to emerging roots.

How to plant grass seed

For small areas, use your hand to distribute the seed, flinging it out over the area. For large areas, use a walk-behind broadcast spreader or a hand-held hopper spreader to disperse the seed. It’s all too easy to put down too much seed, or conversely, not enough seed. When you’re finished, the grass seeds should be evenly spread over the soil surface. They should be about one-quarter to one-half inch apart (obviously no one expects you to actually measure – just eyeball it). If you sow grass seed too thickly, the plants will out compete each other and their growth will suffer. If you don’t sow them thickly enough, weeds may move in.

How to ensure good coverage

Sometimes it’s challenging to ensure ample coverage of grass seedlings. If you are using a drop spreader, I suggest distributing the seeds in one direction and then making a second pass in the perpendicular direction. This two-directional overseeding promotes more even grass seed germination and distribution. If you are spreading the seed by hand, it’s a bit easier to eye, but dropping the seeds from different angles helps.

What to put on top of newly planted grass seed

After the seeds are sown, cover them immediately to protect them from birds, keep them moist, and prevent them from washing away in a heavy rain. There are several different mulches you can use for the job. In my experience, straw (not hay, which can be filled with weed seeds), screened compost, or mushroom soil are prime choices. These products also act as soil amendments when they break down and can improve your soil’s fertility and structure. All three of these options are available from your local garden store or landscape supply center. Erosion mats are another option. They can easily be unrolled over the area with little mess and are biodegradable, though they’re also a good bit more expensive than the previous choices. Peat moss is not a good idea because it can repel water once it has dried out.

No matter what you choose to use to cover grass seed, more is definitely not better. One-quarter of an inch is about as thick as you should go. Compost and mushroom soil are great for covering fall-seeded lawns. Their dark color absorbs the sun’s heat and keeps the soil warm all night long. This speeds germination and encourages rapid lawn establishment prior to winter’s arrival.

Some varieties of turfgrass take longer to germinate than others. For example, perennial rye grass germinates in as little as 3 to 5 days, fescues take more like 10 days, Kentucky bluegrass takes 2 to 3 weeks, and warm-season grasses like centipede, Bermuda, and zoysia grasses can take over a month. If your grass seed is a mixture of varieties, know that not all of them will germinate at the same time. To encourage good germination and a healthy start no matter which type of grass seed you planted, it’s critical that you keep the seeded area and the young plants well-watered until they are established. See the section below on watering for more info on how and when to water new grass.

Planting grass seed in fall

In many climates, the best time to plant grass seed is in the autumn. The still-warm soil of late August, September, October, or November encourages optimum root growth, while the cooling air temperatures discourage excessive top growth. This is perfect for establishing lawn grasses and promoting extensive root growth.  It also makes the turf more resistant to drought and better able to access nutrients in the soil. In addition, in most regions, fall also brings increased amounts of rainfall. This means you won’t have to lug out the hose and sprinkler as often.

It’s time to plant grass seed in the fall when nighttime temperatures drop down to about 60 degrees F. Keep an eye on the forecast. Opt for sowing grass seed when there’s a day or two of rain predicted.

Planting grass seed in spring

Spring is another great time to seed the lawn. It’s particularly good if you live where springs are long and cool. For spring planting, it’s absolutely essential that you continue to regularly water the seed and the sprouted grass through the remainder of the spring, summer, and well into the fall. Establishment failures are often connected to improper watering. Early summer is another possible time, but you’ll need to water more often.

How often to water grass seed after planting

Water newly planted grass seed daily if the weather is over 80 degrees F. Every other day is a good watering schedule if temperatures are cooler. Prior to germination, wet the top inch or so of soil. But, once the grass seed germinates and begins to grow, reduce the frequency of irrigation but water more deeply. Once your new grass is about two inches tall, reduce your watering schedule to once or twice a week, but water until the ground is wet down to a depth of about three inches.

Once grass is fully established, stop irrigation all together, unless there’s a prolonged period of drought. When it comes to watering established lawns, it’s always better to water less frequently but very deeply. Always water lawn in the morning, if possible, to reduce the chance of fungal disease issues.

When is it safe to mow new grass?

Mow new grass when it reaches a height of about 3 inches. Mow high through the first growing season (3 to 4 inches). Make sure your mower blades are sharp (here’s my favorite sharpening tool) so they collect the grass cleanly, rather than tearing it which can create an entryway for disease.

Every winter, I make a plan for which veggies, flowers, and herbs I’m going to start from seed throughout the growing season. Some of them get a head start indoors, while others I wait until the timing is right for direct seeding outside. I also have a little list of seeds for succession planting in the summer after certain crops, like garlic and peas. In this article, I’m going to share tips on direct seeding, as well as explain which crops benefit from being started outside.

What is direct seeding?

Direct seeding—or direct sowing—is when you plant seeds right in the garden instead of starting seeds indoors under lights or in sunny windows, or purchasing seedlings at the nursery. There are a few different crops that benefit from being direct sown. Some cool-season crops, especially root vegetables, don’t do well when transplanted, and some crops that prefer warm soil before you plant seed, like zucchini and melons, can be sown outside when the timing is right.In colder climates like mine, some plants, like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers, need that head start indoors. And while some seeds don’t mind being sown both indoors and outdoors, others perform much better if they’re direct-sown in the ground. Some vegetables and herbs can experience transplant shock from the roots being disturbed while pulling them out of a cell pack and planting them in the garden. Others, like dill, grow a long taproot so they also benefit from not being disturbed once the seeds germinate.

Prepping your garden

Before you rip open those seed packets, you need to do a little site preparation. You don’t want to sow seeds in hard-packed soil. You want the soil to be loose and workable. It’s a good idea to amend your soil with compost before sowing seeds. You can add organic matter in the fall or in the spring. Be sure to remove any weeds before you add soil amendments.

Sowing seeds in the garden

Grab a tray to hold your seeds, a marker, tags, etc. It can also catch any seeds that spill so they don’t go to waste. Read each seed packet carefully. It should explain everything that variety of plant needs. For seeds that can be planted indoors and out, read the recommendations and timelines for both scenarios. If seeds should simply be direct-sown outdoors, that’s what the instructions will state. Check your region’s frost-free date so you know whether the seeds you’ve chosen are to be sown before or after.

Some seeds, like zucchini, pumpkins, and squash, benefit from being planted in low mounds. The seed package will provide the details for spacing.

Accessories for direct seeding

There are some tools that make direct seeding easier. There is the Seeding Square, a template that you lay over the garden soil. Spaced holes sized to the right diameter indicate where to sow seeds. I have a ruler like this one with measurements that show how far apart to plant seeds. You simply lay it in the garden and drop the seeds into the appropriate, pre-formed holes. For tiny seeds, there are special seeder tools that distribute small seeds evenly.

Once you’ve sown a row, you’ll want to add a plant tag at the end of it, so you remember what you’ve planted. I use plastic tags that you can write on with marker. There are also plastic covers that are like little storage compartments. They allow you to put your seed packet or a label inside and they will keep them dry.

Thinning direct-sown seeds

The seed packet will mention how far apart to plant seeds and how deeply, but sometimes it’s really hard to sow teeny tiny seeds at the right distance. It’s easier to pour some in your hand and gently shake them into the planting area. And then later, when they start emerge, you can thin them. A beet, for example, will not thrive if there are other beets competing for that space. This can be a painful process for a gardener because you don’t want to sacrifice any of those plants. But it’s a necessary step. The good thing is, you can eat those sprouts that you pull. Rinse and toss those beet or radish greens in a salad.

To thin, you’ll need to get in there either with unglowed fingers (gloves make it a more finicky task) or tweezers. Choose the seedling that’s going to stay and gently remove everything around it. The package should tell you how far apart each veggie should be.

To water, you’ll want to spray very gently so you don’t wash all your seeds away. You can use a watering can with a rain spout or the gentle setting on your hose nozzle.

Seeds direct-sown by nature

When plants go to seed, you can pull them out to make room for another crop or collect the seeds before removing the plants. You also can let the seeds fall into the garden. This often results in more plants. I’ve had this happen with kale, oregano, cilantro, and dill, as well as annual flowers, like cosmos. I’ve also had seeds for warm-season crops, like tomatoes and tomatillo, come up the following year when I’ve let the fruits to decompose in the soil over the winter instead of pulling them out in the fall.

Vegetable crops for your direct seeding list

• Peas
• Lettuces
• Carrots
• Melons
• Radishes
• Beans: (Lima beans, bush and pole beans)
• Zucchini
• Squash: Spaghetti squash, round squash, pumpkins
• Beets
• Turnips
• Corn

Annuals that can be direct sown

• Poppies
• Nasturtiums
• Marigolds
• Cosmos
• Zinnias
• Bachelor’s buttons

Herbs to direct sow

• Cilantro
• Dill
• Basil (can be started indoors)

You couldn’t resist that perennial on sale at the garden center, so you brought it home. But, you’re concerned about planting it in the heat of summer. Keeping your new perennial alive in its plastic pot probably poses more of a challenge than digging it into the ground. Planting in summer is possible, you just need to take a little more care than you would in the spring and fall when conditions are more favorable. I’m going to share some tips that should help set a new plant up for success, even if it’s planted in July or August.

In my garden, I do all my main planting—containers, perennial beds, vegetable garden—through the spring and early summer. However depending on plants I might accidentally on purpose bring home, I also plant in the summer and fall in my USDA zone 6a garden in Southern Ontario. Annuals, of course, are not as much of an issue, since they only last for the one season. But when you spend your hard-earned money on a perennial, you expect it to come back.

One benefit of planting in the summer months is it allows you to better identify the empty spaces that need to be filled in a garden. Most of your plants are likely in full bloom by this point, or they have leafed out and reached their full size, like a hosta. This makes it easier than the spring to figure out spacing.

Browsing perennials for planting in summer

One of the best chances at success when planting in summer is to purchase plants that have hardy characteristics, like drought and heat tolerance, salt tolerance, etc. In my garden, these include coreopsis, catmint, lavender, and sedum. Native plants will have adapted to the environmental conditions of your region. My favorites include and various varieties of aster.

If you plant a small seedling in super-hot weather, you may go out the next day to find a withered up little stem. Go for the bigger pots where there will be a larger root mass. If you’re shopping in the summer, chances are you’ll be choosing from well-sized pots.

Read plant tags carefully for height and spacing considerations and, of course, to determine whether your plant needs full sun, full shade, or anything in between. What you might want to consider is planting a full sun plant in more of a shady location until the weather cools down a bit towards fall.

Just as shade cloth can be used to protect certain vegetables or newly planted seeds from a hot summer day, it can be used to provide part shade conditions to a new perennial, too.

Try to avoid planting in the midst of a drought

One caution is that you may want to avoid planting perennials in a period of drought. Even plants that are drought-resistant need regular water to become established. Some communities may have water bans during certain times throughout the summer. It’s best to respect these requests and not plant anything during these periods.

Plants that don’t like being planted in the summer include bare root plants or freshly dug out plants. It’s best to avoid transplanting and dividing perennials in the summer heat as it can affect the roots, which are crucial for directing water and nutrients to the plant.

Time your planting

Don’t wait until the heat of the day is cooking the established garden bed. When planting in summer, try to time it so you’re planting early in the morning or in the early evening. You may also want to wait for a cloudy day.

Prepare your perennial

Give your new perennial a thorough watering before you plant, thoroughly soaking the root ball. When you remove the plant from the pot, gently loosen the roots a bit before setting it into the hole, especially if the plant is very root bound in the pot.

Prep your garden for planting in summer

If you notice after the first good rainstorm (or anytime) that the root ball is inching above the soil, you may want to dig your plant in a little deeper. The root ball should be level with the soil line, but roots should be covered. This helps prevent the root ball from drying out.

Mulch the garden

A layer of mulch over a garden area helps the soil below to conserve water and keeps the area around the plant cool. I use a shredded cedar mulch in my front yard garden. It also helps keep the weeds down, which can compete with new plants for space, water, and nutrients.

Watering a perennial planted in summer

New plants need more water to become established. Water deeply about three times a week. If it rains, you’re off the hook! Check regularly for signs your plant is in distress. That may indicate you need to water more (or maybe even less).

Fertilizing a newly planted perennial

The main issue when caring for a new plant, especially one planted in mid to late summer, is that you want the roots to become established. But you don’t need lots of new growth on the top of the plant.

Look for transplant fertilizer to add to your new perennial or shrub at the time of planting, or a fertilizer with low nitrogen and higher phosphorus. I’ve used a product called Root Rescue that I got at a garden show. It features mycorrhizal which seek out extra water and nutrients in the soil that the roots aren’t able to find on their own.

Whichever product you choose, make sure it’s right for your garden conditions, and apply it according to the package directions at the time of planting. Ask the experts at your local garden center or nursery if you are unsure. After planting, don’t worry about fertilizing again during this first growing season. Wait until the following spring.

Keep a close eye on your plant

You’ll want to really pay attention to your new plant, especially throughout that first week, to ensure it’s adapting well to its new environment. Sometimes, despite our best intentions and care, plants fail to thrive in their new location, no matter when you are able to plant them. If you keep your receipt, some nurseries will provide a refund up to a year after you purchase the plant.

When faced with all of the different soil mixes available online and in our favorite garden centers, deciding on garden soil vs potting soil can be a little confounding. After all, there are individual products for potting up orchids, African violets, cacti, succulents, and more. So, how do you tell them apart? And what potential benefits can be attributed to them? To find the answers—and figure out which growing medium might be best for your gardening project—it’s important to understand which ingredients are typically found in both garden soil and potting soil. Then you can fill your garden or container accordingly so the plants, seeds, and seedlings you dig in can thrive.

As a general rule, garden soil is used in outdoor raised beds or mixed into traditional garden beds. Potting soils and mixes are often used when potting up outdoor container arrangements, potting (or re-potting) houseplants, and for seed-starting and plant propagation.

Why garden soil and potting soil are not interchangeable

Although you may see them referred to interchangeably, garden soil and potting soil are not actually the same thing. They each have different qualities which make them better suited for different uses. For instance, while potting soils are generally lightweight and sterile, garden soils are usually heavier and potentially teeming with life.

What is garden soil?

Used by itself or added to outdoor garden beds, garden soil is topsoil that has been amended with organic materials, like compost, worm castings, and aged manure. As for the topsoil it contains? If you were to dig a couple of feet down into the dirt, you’d find a dark-colored layer—the topsoil—in at least the first few inches. On its own, topsoil is used in landscaping projects like filling in low spots or establishing new lawns. It contains organic matter and, depending on its source, varying amounts of different particle sizes, including silt, sand, and clay.

What is potting soil?

Potting soil is a standalone growing medium often used in seed-starting and container gardening. Potting soils may contain a base of garden soil, aged compost, or composted wood along with non-soil additives. Some of these extra ingredients add structure and support for plant roots. Others help to retain moisture or provide room for oxygen around developing plant roots.Just to throw another wrench into things, unlike many potting soils, potting mixes—also known as soil less mixes— don’t contain soil. Instead, these are made up of non-soil additives, like peat moss, pine bark, and mined perlite and vermiculite. (Into organic gardening? Read potting mix labels carefully to make sure the ingredients meet your specific criteria.)

Ingredients in potting soil

Some of the most common ingredients you’ll find in potting soil include non-soil additives like perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, and coconut coir.

Perlite and vermiculite: Both perlite and vermiculite are naturally occurring minerals that are usually included in potting soils to help with soil structure, drainage, and aeration.

Peat moss: For its part, peat moss is another heavily used natural resource. Harvested from peat bogs, the material holds moisture well and improves the growing medium’s texture, too. (Concerned about peat? Keep reading for alternatives.)

Coconut coir: A byproduct of coconut harvesting, coconut coir is a fibrous material that comes from just below the coconut’s outer shell. Coir is a newer potting soil additive that also retains moisture really well.

Incidentally, when deciding on garden soil vs potting soil, some gardeners’ choices are influenced by sustainability issues. When left undisturbed, peat bogs hold onto large amounts of carbon. Upon harvest, that climate-changing carbon is released into the atmosphere. And, although it’s sometimes floated as a more sustainable option, coconut coir has its own limitations. Because the material is high in salts, coir requires a great deal of fresh water to process for use in gardening.Recently, gardeners and potting soil manufacturers alike have been experimenting with “greener,” non-soil additives. One promising possibility? PittMoss, a growing medium blend made from recycled paper fibers.

The components of garden soil

In part, the overall quality and characteristics of garden soil can vary depending on the ratio of silt, sand, and clay present in the topsoil it contains. That’s because clay soil, sandy soil, and loam soil each have different properties. (For example, while clay-heavy soils retain water and nutrients well, soils with higher amounts of sand will let go of moisture and nutrients more quickly.)

In addition to topsoil, garden soil can contain many different sources of organic matter. Some of these sources commonly include aged manure, well-rotted wood chips, finished compost, or worm castings.

The main differences between garden soil vs potting soil

Understanding the main differences between garden soil vs potting soil makes knowing which one to reach for much easier.

Garden soil

• Rich in organic matter
• Quality and characteristics vary depending on top soil and amendment types
• Heavier than potting mixes
• Contains range of macro and micronutrients, and beneficial microorganisms
• May contain some weed seeds and plant pathogens
• Retains moisture and nutrients
• Provides good support for roots and top-heavy plants

Potting soil

• Contains non-soil additives like peat moss and perlite
• Uniform, lightweight texture
• Sterile (contains no weed seeds or plant pathogens)
• Provides no nutrients (unless fertilizer is added to the mix)
• Doesn’t hold nutrients well
• Retains moisture and facilitates drainage
• Plant-specific mixes (with optimized pH levels) available

The power of beneficial microbes in garden soil

Unlike sterile, soilless mixes, garden soil contains a multitude of tiny, living creatures—soil microbes, including beneficial fungi, bacteria, and nematodes, among others. As these microorganisms naturally break down organic matter in the soil, they increase the bioavailability of nutrients. This, in turn, affords the plants we grow in that soil greater access to the micro and macronutrients they need in order to thrive. The community of microbes living in garden soil also helps to keep certain plant pests and pathogens in check.

Which option is best for starting seeds?

Potting soils made up of soilless ingredients, like perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss or coir, have been developed with seed starting in mind. They facilitate good drainage and aeration, they don’t contain weed seeds, and, because they’re sterile, you’re much less likely to lose new seedlings to disease. Potting soil pH levels also are optimal for seed starting.

Depending on their ingredients and the manufacturing processes used, some potting “soils”—as well as potting mixes and soil less mixes—do not contain the fungi or bacteria that are present in regular garden soil. It’s true that many soil-based microorganisms do have positive effects on nearby plants; however, some are the culprits behind soil-borne “damping-off,” “root rot,” and other diseases. These can ravage germinating seeds, small seedlings, and new plant cuttings.

Which soil is better for making a raised bed vegetable garden?

When I give my talks about raised beds, soil is one of the most popular questions. My recommendations are always to purchase the best-quality soil you can afford. In this case, a garden soil delivery makes the most sense. Part sand, silt, and/or clay and heavily amended with organic ingredients like compost or aged manure, garden soil is a great source of slow-release nutrients. Heavier than potting mix, it also retains moisture better. I will top-dress the garden soil layer with more compost to add even more nutrients to the soil. And for deeper garden beds, I’ll add a layer of sticks and branches, or sod, to fill in the bottom, before adding the garden soil. This article goes into more detail on choosing soil for a raised bed.